| Island
Magic
Cycling & Mountain Biking Today
By Roger St. Pierre
Roger St. Pierre discovers mountain bike
heaven in the sun-kissed Caribbean.
It's
easy to get to - thanks to low cost charter flights - and
it's cheap when you're there. The crime rate is low, the food's
good, the climate's perfect the beaches superb and the scenery
stunning. And, what's more, the locals love cycling.
Stop for a breather in some village or other
and somebody is bound to bring a chair out onto the pavement
for you to sit down - if someone else has not already invited
you into their home!
The Dominican Republic - two-thirds of the
Caribbean island of Hispaniola, which was Christopher Columbus'
landfall - is a third world country that's rich in culture,
colour and all-round good vibes.
It's full of surprises too. The highlands
rise to well over 10,000 feet and you'll find landscapes which,
save for the odd palm tree or ten could be in the gentler
uplands of the European Alps, complete with pine trees and
lush meadows. They are farmers here, with sizeable herds of
dairy cattle; they also grow a huge range of fruit and veg
and produce highly lauded rum.
But tourism is now the name of the game -
though development in this likeable country is being sensibly
controlled.
"Sustainable tourism" is the catchphrase, a principle
closely adhered to by Tricia Thorndike, boss of the Iguana
Mama Mountain Bike Center, in the little coastal resort town
of Cabarete. It's a gadget-filled shop (tel: 001 809 571 0908)
which also runs packaged MTB tours all over the island.
Determined to put a lot back into the society
which provides the infrastructure to attract the visiting
bike riders on whom her business depends, Trish, with her
enthusiastic team, has been busy setting up a much-needed
local library, as well as supporting the local high school
and paying for a bright local girl to go through college in
the States. They also help out local cyclists who, strapped
for cash, often ride bikes which are held together with little
more than chewing gum and a prayer.
And there's plenty of cycling for them to
take part in - with events ranging from a full mountain bike
programme to BMX and a major international tour for the road
racing fraternity.
It's a great place to tour as well. Though
some of the road surfaces on the island leave a lot to be
desired, I enjoyed a glorious 30 mile descent on my visit,
down a beautifully engineered stretch which wound its way
down from the mountains in a series of exhilarating swoops
and sweeping turns.
Roger to HQ
The north coast resort of Cabarete, within
easy reach of the island's international airport of Puerta
Plata, though quiet a haul from the bustling capital city
of Santo Domingo (with its 1.5 million population) makes a
great base for touring the island. Besides being the home
of Iguana Mama, who will be happy to rent you top model Cannondale
mountain bike or arrange a full itinerary, it's got a range
of good hotels.
Try Caracol (tel: 001 809 571 0680) with
its pool and good restaurant; the Nanny Estates luxury two-bedroom
apartments (tel: 001 809 571 0744), with private pool and
tennis court; the secluded Las Orquideas (tel: 001 809 571
0787), also boasting its own pool; or the Cabarete Beach (tel:
001 809 571 0755), ideally located right in the centre of
town.
Should you like the place well enough to
want to stay - as a number of American mountain bikers have
already chosen to do - Hans Peter Nanny, a genial Swiss entrepreneur
who speaks four languages and owns two of the best restaurants,
Tropicoco and Chez Cabarete, has started a consulting business
(tel: 001 809 571 0839) for people interested in taking up
residency on the island. Trish Thorndike worked in Colorado
as a ski instructor before she herself made that move: "I
then went off backpacking in places like Asia, the South Pacific
and Central and South America before I discovered mountain
biking and the ideal place to do it - as well as finding myself
a husband and a great lifestyle!"
Now employing a staff of 15 - a mix of locals,
fellow Americans, and Brits - Iguana Mama was set up a year
ago and has been going from strength to strength ever since.
"We approached 10 mountain bike companies
to help us with our mountain bike tours programme but only
Cannondale responded. They have been enormously supportive
and helped set up a promotional tour of the island by their
MTB trials rider and stuntman, Libor Karas, whose amazing
displays got cycling onto nationwide TV and helped make it
even more popular."
© Cycling & Mountain Biking Today
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